Removing The Real Wheel From My Motorcycle

Last night I had a breakdown (scroll back to see that post), and today's work was figuring out what went wrong. Turns out the wheel bearings failed. What follows is a photo tour of the process of removing my rear wheel. I figure someone out there could use a visual walkthrough, and what's what the Internet is for.

The photos below are for a 2008 H-D Sportster 883, but  probably aren't very different for other models and makes.

First, support the bike on a lift, in such a way that it won't be a problem when 40 pounds of weight comes off of the rear end later on. I have a cheap Harbor Freight lift, and also one car ramp to support the front wheel when it's off the ground.

The area of operations

The wheel is held on by the axle, which acts as a very long bolt through the middle of the wheel. The axle is held in place by two things: a nut called the axle nut, and a metal clip called an E clip to keep the axle nut from moving even if it were to come loose.

So the second step is to pull off the E clip (a pair of pliers works, just don't bend it), then remove the axle nut. The axle nut was really tight and I couldn't torque it (good!) so I improvised a tool: the handle of my lift is a hollow tube, and it fits nicely over the shaft of my socket wrench.

The socket wrench, with a long enough handle -- the handle of my Harbor Freight lift.

Success! The axle nut and the washer.

Next up, loosen the drive belt. The tension of the belt, as well as the alignment of the rear wheel, is controlled by a pair of eye bolts and the nuts which tighten them. Simply remove the rubber caps, then loosen the belt tensioning nuts all the way. In a few minutes, your belt will be so loose you can remove it by hand.

The tension nuts and rubber caps. The nut changes the length of the eye bolt's shaft, and the eye bolt pulls back on the axle. The right and left side tension nuts are independent, so when we put the wheel back on these nuts will also control whether the wheel is facing straight.

Eventually there was a full inch of slack in the belt and it came off by hand.

Lastly, remove the axle and the wheel will drop off by itself. For the most part, this is done by hammering the left-hand side of the axle, pushing it out the right-hand side. The manual says to use a rubber mallet, but in a pinch I used a hammer wrapped in a rag (this is not good for the rag). I also made a tool to let me hammer it a bit further through, using socket wrench parts.

A rubber mallet... yeah...

To let me hammer an extra inch or so, I made this. It's an extender from my socket set, with an adapter to give it the right width. A rubber mallet or the rag trick, work well to not scratch up my extender.

Eventually, the axle comes out. I usually sit on the right-hand side and tug with a rag. The rear wheel will fall off, so have it supported. I have good boots and big feet, so it works for me to hold the wheel up with my foot as I remove the axle, and let it come down gently.

Right-hand side, the axle is coming out.

Did I mention the spacer on the right-hand side? Don't lose it!

And there you have it: no rear wheel, and open access to check out brake pads, a great opportunity to examine the wheel for cracks, to check out the tire, ...